Gold vermeil sits in a useful middle ground. It gives you a proper layer of gold over a precious metal base, at a price that sits well below solid gold. If you have seen the word on a product page and were not quite sure what you were buying, here is a plain explanation of what vermeil is, how long it tends to last, and how to keep it looking its best.
What gold vermeil actually is
Vermeil, pronounced ver may, is sterling silver coated in a layer of gold. For a piece to be sold as vermeil in the proper sense, it has to meet two conditions. The base has to be sterling silver, which is 92.5 per cent pure silver, and the gold layer has to be at least 2.5 microns thick. A micron is a thousandth of a millimetre, so 2.5 microns is still very thin, but it is a good deal thicker than standard gold plating.
The gold itself is usually 14k or 18k. That gives you the warm colour of gold on the surface and a solid silver core underneath, rather than a base metal like brass or copper.
How vermeil differs from gold plating
The two terms get used loosely, which is where a lot of confusion comes from. Standard gold plating can sit on any base metal, and the gold layer is often as thin as 0.5 microns. Vermeil has rules. A sterling silver base, and a gold layer five times thicker than typical plating at the minimum.
That difference matters for how the piece wears over time. A thicker layer of gold takes longer to wear through, and a silver base will not bring up the skin reactions that some people get from nickel heavy alloys. If you want the full comparison, we cover it in our guide to solid gold versus gold plated jewellery.
How long does gold vermeil last
With everyday wear, a good piece of vermeil will usually hold its colour for one to three years before the gold starts to thin in the areas that get the most contact. Rings tend to show wear first, because hands are in constant use and rings rub against everything. Earrings and necklaces sit more gently against the skin and often look good for much longer.
How long your piece lasts comes down to three things. The thickness of the gold, how often you wear it, and how you treat it. Sweat, perfume, hand sanitiser and chlorine all speed up the wear, because they react with the gold and the silver underneath. Someone who wears a vermeil ring every day while cooking, cleaning and washing up will see it fade faster than someone who saves the same ring for evenings out.
How to make vermeil last longer
A few simple habits make a real difference.
Take your vermeil off before showering, swimming or exercising. Put it on after your perfume, moisturiser and hairspray have dried, not before. Wipe each piece with a soft dry cloth after wearing it, so sweat and oils do not sit on the surface overnight. Store it somewhere dry and away from other jewellery that might scratch it, ideally in a soft pouch or a lined box. Our guide to storing fine jewellery goes into more detail.
Avoid jewellery dips and harsh silver cleaners on vermeil. They are made to strip tarnish from solid silver and they can take the gold layer with them. Warm water, a drop of mild washing up liquid and a soft cloth is all you need.
Is vermeil the right choice for you
Vermeil is a sensible option when you want the look of gold on a smaller budget, and you are happy to treat the piece with a bit of care. It works well for earrings, pendants and pieces you wear now and then rather than around the clock.
If you want something you can wear every single day for decades without thinking about it, solid gold is the better long term home for your money, because the colour goes all the way through and never wears off. We look at which purity suits daily wear in our guide to the best gold purity for everyday wear.
A note on what we make
At Luma, our focus is solid gold and lab grown diamond jewellery rather than vermeil, because we want pieces that last a lifetime. Our everyday necklaces and everyday earrings are solid gold and hallmarked at the London Assay Office, so the colour never wears off and there is nothing to replate. If you are weighing up vermeil against solid gold for an everyday piece, we are glad to talk it through. Book a consultation at our Hatton Garden studio and we will help you choose the option that fits how you live and what you want to spend.